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When compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. But, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest restaurant securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.